The Tostón Lighthouse has been lit since 1897. It stands just over a kilometre north of El Cotillo, at the end of a paved track that runs along the volcanic coast. You can get there by car, bicycle, or on foot if the wind cooperates.

What surprises you on arrival is the scale. It is a medium-sized lighthouse, painted red and white, surrounded by low whitewashed buildings. The ocean can be seen from all four sides. On clear days — which are most days — you can make out the profile of Lanzarote to the north.

Inside, the Museum of Traditional Fishing operates, small and well kept. It explains how fishing was done along this coast before tourism arrived: the boats, the tackle, the fishing calendars according to wind and moon. It is a museum that does not try to impress — only to document. That makes it more honest than many.

We recommend going in the late afternoon, when the light falls sideways on the black rocks and the lighthouse begins to light up. The walk back to the village on foot, along the coast, with the sun setting, is one of those routes you remember.